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Kolkata – made it.

Filtered early morning light and a lone employee - Dubai

Filtered early morning light and a lone employee – Dubai

 

Regular travellers know how to minimise everything. This means ensuring luggage and carry-ons are at an optimal mass – enough to make sure there is space for everything and that nothing is forgotten. It must weigh less than the maximum permissible so as not to attract attention at the check-in and harmless enough to (sometimes) escape the ministrations of the security team(s).

 

Sometimes.

 

Most of the time, check-ins are the pits. The new trick is insisting on weighing your carry-on. The inside is tightly packed with camera kit, a computer and a few accessories; all the things you want by your side and not at the mercies of the often light-fingered baggage handlers.

 

If you’ve avoided theft from your checked-in luggage, lucky you. Four of my last five flights requiring a plane change in Johannesburg have seen my bag opened and items stolen. Reporting the loss is hopeless, as management appears to be as venal as the workers, so I pack everything that is non-replaceable into my carry on and put everything else in a strong clip top plastic box in my check-in bag.

 

It seems pretty commonsensical, but that one box contains filters, lens hoods, a stand-alone LaCie disk, cables, chargers, spare batteries and the tiny items like the pin to open the SIM tray on my iPhone. Everything is tightly packed to ensure it doesn’t rattle and I know that when I arrive at my destination, I don’t have to unpack my entire suitcase to find a battery, or a card reader.

 

Packed and available luggage mass permitting, it’s now time for essentials. In goes the Swiss Army Knife I’ve carried for years – in-family it’s universally known as a McGyver as you never know how much you’ll need it until you do – and on these trips I add a roll of Sellotape and a roll of tear-off Velcro cable ties. A few conventional plastic cable ties can also be useful.

 

And yes, the loss of the box would be a huge hassle, but with a bit of planning, it’s all replaceable. The loss of a camera, or memory card(s) can ruin the best planned trip.

 

No idea - Dubai

No idea – Dubai

 

For us, this trip is to India. It’s not the easiest place to get in to; us poms need a visa and it’s just our luck that the on-line visa application system doesn’t yet extend to Brit passport holders. So, it’s off to an agent in Cape Town, pay a huge (by local standards) amount for your visa and to have the application checked and submitted on your behalf.

 

Wait three weeks, having booked flights and accommodation and it’s still not clear whether we will be allowed to do much more than get off the plane in Kolkata.

 

Eventually, we’re cleared and our visa-d passports are returned – more opportunity for the Border Security wonks in the US to interrogate us about next time we head west. Now for the medical details.

 

Spot the A380 - somewhere over Pakistan

Spot the A380 – somewhere over Pakistan

 

Living in Africa, we’re pretty used to mosquitos and understand how important it is to use a repellant and take a prophylactic. And, we’ve still got a couple of years on our ten year yellow fever certification, so it’s just hepatitis A we really need to be prepared for.

 

Well, no. The Travel Clinic put the fear of god in us and convinced us to get inoculated against the aforementioned hep A plus typhoid, polio and tetanus as well. In real terms, it wasn’t terribly expensive, but our shoulders are both sore from the combi-vaccine we got in each arm.

 

Now, the pile of documents, e-tickets, vouchers and vaccination certificates is growing steadily. There’s easily enough to fill a pocket in one of our carry-ons.

 

And then it was done. 15:30 saw us at Cape Town International, a stopover in Dubai, eased by several hours lolling in the Diners Club lounge and the four and a half hour hop to Kolkata.

 

The longest wait was for our luggage.

 

Heading home, Kolkata Airport

Heading home, Kolkata Airport

 

Late commuters, Kolkata Airport

Late commuters, Kolkata Airport

 

Once out of the baggage area, we traversed customs and found our guide waiting for us, all smiles and incomprehensible English. Less than an hour later, we’d navigated the city’s riotous traffic and landed in a time machine; our hotel is a throwback to the mid-30s of the previous century, when the forebears of the current owners took ownership. There is a lifetime of memories and tokens of a bygone age everywhere. Camera central.

 

Tired and thirsty, we opted for a plate (huge) of chicken tikka and boiled rice, washed down with Premium Kingfisher beer. Sleep calls and a world of photo ops waits out on the streets in the morning.

 

Tarra.

Sudden lunch – prepping for India (a bit)

Course six, or was it seven?

Course six, or was it seven?

 

Less than week before we climb on the iron chicken and head for India. Time then for some quiet thinking and ideas on how and what I might want to photograph.

 

So, I’m busy, busy, busy looking and reading on the Interwebs and I find myself becoming increasingly interested in the way other Fuji photogs post-process their images and on top of a bout of RTFM, discover how to make the X100 capture black and white JPGs and at the same time, save a full colour RAW file. That’s a no-brainer – the only cost is storage space. On a 64Gb SD card, who cares?

 

Fellow diner, resting between courses

Fellow diner, resting between courses

 

Waney edge table, benches

Waney edge table, benches

 

Decanters

Decanters

 

Then, out-of-the-blue a friend who lives most of the time in Zambia arrives in town and invites us to lunch. The venue? A favourite restaurant, on a vineyard nestled in the mountains high above Stellenbosch – surely, time for the Fuji to strut its stuff – something that’s not happened much of late.

 

The lunch turned out to be our friend’s birthday celebration, a 10 course, 12 wine monster – the latter all from his own extensive cellar of local and French imports. Some post processing experiments the next morning and I’ve got a hat full if ideas to pack in my case next week.

 

Sunbeam, marble work top

Sunbeam, marble work top

 

Glass wall, reflections

Glass wall, reflections

 

You’ll excuse the quality of the images slowly falling away as the dining finished and six o’clock lurched into view…

 

Talking about cricket will do this to you

Talking about cricket will do this to you

The Skye bit

Sunset over Cuillin seen from Elgol

Sunset over Cuillin seen from Elgol

 

Lunch was sublime, Cape Town’s best; fresh tuna carpaccio followed by spaghetti vongole for Mrs P and swordfish pasta for me. Washed down with a couple of glasses of more than acceptable local rosé and then, a quick trip to the airport.

 

If you think this looks good, you should have tasted it.

If you think this looks good, you should have tasted it.

Clam fallout

Clam fallout

 

Lunch? I’d promised Mrs P as she only leaves for the UK (to join me there) next week.

 

So, airport, book in, customs, security, immigration all dealt with in moments and now I’m lolling dozily in the airline’s lounge.

 

Here we all are; me with a complimentary scotch, the uncomfortable German businessman, thick fingers jabbing his phone’s tiny keys. He will become an enemy before I leave, but more of that later.

 

A loud American that can’t access the wi-fi (nothing new there, this is South Africa after all).

 

An English woman, cell-phone-bellowing at endless friends and members of her family. The phone is redundant; her blare is loud enough without, her endless sentence-end laughs intrusive and wildly excessive.

 

Hoodie-clad Ms Two Tennis racquets stares vacantly, seeking who-knows-what.

 

Golf on a TV that no-one is watching. African talking heads on the other, also unwatched. Load shedding Stage 2. No-one cares any more – our venal and mendacious government has poked the economy in the eye and doesn’t have the first clue how to remedy a tumbling growth rate and 37% unemployment.

 

A raddled housewife, weary looking husband and two excited kids; coming or going? “I’m eating all this now so I won’t get hungry later on the aerwoplane” says male junior. Mum resorts to her phone to force hubby to attend to his brood. No chance. He’s got chips and a big fat drink.

 

Daddy, how long?” they squawk endlessly.

 

Gwmph.” Translation; “Fuck. I don’t know and care even less. Leave me alone for two minutes.

 

Daddy, I also need to go to the bathroom.” Daddy sighs, stands up, his phone falling from his lap where he was discretely checking e-mails. Everywhere, there’s a distinct air of resignation and we’re not on board yet.

 

There’s two seats” says a clearly retired hubby, already weary of air travel. “There’s no table. There’s no table. There’s no table” replies clockwork wife, used to getting her own way. Hubby stands owlishly… seconds staring at her retreating back. I imagine (as I think he does), plunging a knife into her and putting an end to her anger-making, syllable emphasising hand flapping, as she complains. Stab! Now STFU!

 

They’re all on the plane and I am glad of (for once) a couple of decent movies and an early night. It’s that or people who insist on carrying on high decibel conversations, screeching children, or the whining passengers for whom nothing is ever right.

 

Skye

Skye

 

In nine hours or so, the plane will land in Dubai and scratchy-eyed, we will deplane, to sit and wait for connecting flights to all corners of the globe. It’s a great hub and spoke system if you can deal with it.

 

With your body clock at single digit a.m. hours, you need to have managed to keep a bit of the hooligan about you as you aged – not being afraid of pre-breakfast alcohol and social interaction at the bar are essential. If you can’t, then sleep is the only option in an uncomfortable seat miles from your gate (it’s usually the only one available), the thousand yard, broken sleep stare and just about every language, food aroma and offensive personal habit imaginable. Just try to blast through the porridge that is where your brain used to be, long enough before you doze off to remember to set the alarm on your phone – otherwise, you’ll slumber on serenely and miss the bloody plane.

 

Oh joy.

 

My connecting flight leaves at sometime after 05:00, arriving in Glasgow at half past midday, after several hours flying time and an additional three hours of time difference. Then it’s find the car hire desk, get the (already booked) car and drive to Mallaig, in order to catch the last ferry of the day to Skye. Mr Google says it’ll take three and a half hours, I hope he’s right, or I’ll have wasted a ferry ticket and will have to drive an additional hundred miles to reach my hotel and catch up with Bob, my photographic companion for the next few days.

 

The German businessman? Minutes before leaving for the gate, I use “the facilities”, returning to find the last decent gulp of my most enjoyable drink is now awash with the detritus that collects on any lounge table; sweetie wrappers, a torn up voucher and a couple of tea spoons.

 

“Oh. Sorry. I thought you had left.”

 

“Sure you did, that’s why my luggage is still here and my computer is still on the table.”

 

What a bell end.

 

Neist Point and lighthouse

Neist Point and lighthouse

 

Later…

 

Tired. Simple word, complicated outcome. My photo buddy Bob and I have driven, walked, scrambled and clambered much of Skye this last few days. At six and a bit decades, I’ve done well, but am now done in and planning a celebratory early night It’s almost half past nine after all(!) – and still light outside.

 

It’s also driech – overcast, moody and drizzing. Typical Scotland but not great for stunning sunrises and sunsets. Still, we’ve had a chance to catch up, grumble about our various Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) afflictions and on occasion, head to out harm some otherwise defenceless pixels.

 

Looking towards Ramasaig

Looking towards Ramasaig

 

Last evening (Sunday) saw us scrambling over the boulders at Elgol, to catch a spectacular sunset scene over the Cuilin mountains. It was well below 10C and way past ten before the sun obliged and set behind the mountain and much later still before we gave up for the night.

 

Then on the drive back to the hotel I managed to spot an interesting roadside scene, making us another half hour later arriving back at the hotel and a warming nippie sweetie (or two).

 

Reeds in deep dusk

Reeds in deep dusk

 

It’s been great. I now know my way around Skye a bit better thanks to Bob and also have a new avatar – my back again, I’m afraid.

 

Tomorrow, I leave for the beautifully named St John’s Town of Dalry and an overnight with Messrs Leeming and Patterson, photographers of the parish. Then it’s ever south- (and west-) wards to Pembrokeshire and a night with great mate, Steve at his home – Treffynnon – nestled in the hills high above Newport.

 

Thursday, it’s on to London and at sparrow’s on Friday morning, Heathrow to collect Mrs P.

 

Meanwhile, I decide to sit in the hotel lounge where the Internet reception is marginally better than the messenger with a forked stick I’ve had in my room. I’m sharing this quiet space with four Americans who, like me are waiting for the office to open to pay our bills, then grab some breakfast. My car is packed; I’m due at the Armadale ferry terminal at about 09:30 and en route, I’m planning to stop at a spot I noticed yesterday and phot for a few minutes.

 

Misty morning reeds

Misty morning reeds

 

A few minutes peace and quiet to close off a wonderful few days…

 

Grey haired Mrs American no.1 has other ideas and decides it would be a good time to fire up her iPad to listen to some voice mail from a clearly demented friend, or CNN (I don’t know, nor care which) at earsplitting volume.

 

In fact, it’s so loud that when I said “Could you please turn that down?” she couldn’t hear me and had to be elbowed in the ribs by her partner/husband. He’s obviously used to dealing with such blithe and arrogant rudeness.

 

Misty morning reeds

Misty morning reeds

The thousand yard stare

Cape Town quickie

I’ve made a couple of quick trips into Cape Town recently. Yesterday, I had an hour to kill, so wandered the streets with my now much loved Fuji X100T and added a few images to a small, but growing collection.

 

Plein Street

Plein Street

 

EFF spoor

EFF spoor

 

Truth Coffee - steampunk comes to Cape Town

Truth Coffee – steampunk comes to Cape Town

 

Buitengracht St

Buitengracht St

 

Building supply by IKEA

Building supply by IKEA

 

The thousand yard stare

The thousand yard stare

Monday Club

A (rare) quiet moment

A (rare) quiet moment

 

Not long after we first moved down to the Cape, one of our newly made acquaintances suggested a Monday lunch time get-together and braai for the locals who had both the time and interest. Great idea – I just knew moving here was the right thing to do.

 

Initially, we gathered at motivator-in-chief, Chris’ home then moved to one of the local pubs – anywhere with a bar and a braai (barbeque) was a potential venue. The format was simple; bring anything you might want to cook and eat and dop (booze) if you wanted it. Sometimes salads or freshly baked braai bread were provided by the host, others it was just what we brought along.

 

Over several years, the interest in Monday Club – we’re nothing if not imaginative down here – fluctuated wildly. Sometimes there was just founder Chris and myself, other weeks as many as thirty people turned up.

 

Chris’ untimely death a couple of years ago was a huge blow for everyone around here and while Monday Club staggered on, it just wasn’t the same and eventually, it ground to a halt. I think we all missed Chris, our regular get togethers, the socialising and of course, a couple of beers on what was otherwise a dull Monday.

 

It was a pleasant surprise then to find that several of the Pringle Bay locals had resurrected Monday Club – we live in a neighbouring village and the carrier pigeon took a while to get here so I missed the first couple of (re)gatherings – and while not as frequent as before, our meet-ups certainly hadn’t lost much of their social style.

 

Monday was no exception and aside from going to the wrong security gate and driving aimlessly around the wrong estate for about a quarter of an hour, I was still one of the first to arrive. In my cool bag some marinated chicken – great braai fare – and a couple of icy cold Heinekens.

 

I’d not intended to play happy snapper, but always keep a camera in the car and today was a day I felt like shooting people pictures. For the technically minded, I used my still new Fuji X100 and quickly found the off-beat much more interesting than the traditional glass-clutching, around braai shots. Of course, someone producing the now mandatory hamper of hats put an entirely different complection on everything.

 

Hope you like them too.

The face with hairy teeth

The face with hairy teeth

 

Barry does Minnie

Barry does Minnie

 

Deep stuff going on here. Move along.

Deep stuff going on here. Move along.

 

No idea.

No idea.

 

Bernie the bunny

Bernie the bunny

 

Angel? Not.

Angel? Not.

 

Time to go - the line dancing's started

Time to go – the line dancing’s started